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Photography DiscussionHas anyone attempted a DIY painted backdrop?

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Duck
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Re: Has anyone attempted a DIY painted backdrop?

Post by Duck » Wed Apr 24, 2019 3:19 am

Thanks Steven. This is one image in a part of a series I'm working on that I'm uploading to Adobe Stock. Who knows if it'll sell. But it gave me an excuse to play around with my new background. :D
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Post by minniev » Wed Apr 24, 2019 2:17 pm

Duck wrote:
Wed Apr 24, 2019 1:16 am
I don't know if I mentioned it but two weeks ago I created a small tabletop textured background. I needed something dark with texture as all my dark stuff is fairly smooth. This particular background is 2' x 4' luan with the other side stained a dark brown to keep the wood grain on the better side of the plywood. Here are images of the results from a shoot I did for stock.

DIY Textured BG.jpg

DIY Textured BG in use.jpg

Unitas_Photography-4244.jpg
Very nice look with that background. Keep it up!
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Ed Shapiro
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Post by Ed Shapiro » Sun Nov 24, 2019 10:47 pm

Hey Gang! I'M A BIT LATE TO THE PARTY BUT I THOUGHT I WOULD STOP BY.

Interesting question. I was taught to paint multi colored backgrounds by Loraine Charis, a grand master of the art who, sadly, is no longer with us.

Use FLAT LATEX paint without UV brighteners. Theses brighteners add a kida iridescent look to the color and will fluoresce (glow), especially under electronic flash illumination. This is why they have to be avoided.

You can paint directly on a wall, sized canvas, or a good quality window shade for portable use.

First lay in a base coat of flat black or dark gray latex paint latex paint. This can be done with a roller. Allow it to dry overnight.

Next, select the color you are going to use, at least 4 differet ones and obtain them is smaller quantities.

You can use brushes of various sizes and friness of the bristles and wads of NATURAL SPONGE to apply the paints. Allow enough time for drying between application so the colors won't dissolve and discolor each other. Paints can be brushed or dabbed on with the brushes and sponges. You can also blend the edges of each color application.

As I am painting, I keep the camera at my average distance from the subject, focus on the subject positon, and observe the effect both with the backgroud in an out of focuse at various apertures. When I achieve the effect I want, I stop painting!

I usually try for a more contrasty effect where the backgroud appears somewhat brighter that it will appear in a low key portrait. I can use a backgroud light for a medium key effect or just use the spill form the main ligh for a low key image in whic case the background will just add a bit of color and tonal masee and not appear like a "fake oil painting". That small amount of tonal mass will give more dimension to the image than a jet black background because it provides the illusion of space and gives the viewer the illusion that they can walk aroud the subject.

COLORS- I usually stick with colder colors that accentuate the warmth of the skin tones. Warmer color provide a more monochromatic effect. Colder color recede and provide more space and depth- warmer color tend to project forward. You can decide of the effect you prefer.

You can look through a book of Gainsborough, Rembrandt, Degas, Renoir or you favorit master for ideas or just go at it and design you own.
For large groups and full length portraits you can paint the wall and the floor or use a canvas that forms a cyclorama.

Good thing is, if you mess it up, you can lay in another base coat and start all over again or just touch up the mess and fix it.

You can also do a high key version with a white base coat and subtle pastel colors.

I am working away for my studio this week, If anyone is interested, I'll post some images of a few of the backgrounds I have in my camera room as they look in person and then in the resulting images. I may have a few in my tablet here, if I can find them, I'll post them later on.

Kindest regards, Ed :lol:

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Post by minniev » Mon Nov 25, 2019 4:22 am

Ed Shapiro wrote:
Sun Nov 24, 2019 10:47 pm
Hey Gang! I'M A BIT LATE TO THE PARTY BUT I THOUGHT I WOULD STOP BY.

Interesting question. I was taught to paint multi colored backgrounds by Loraine Charis, a grand master of the art who, sadly, is no longer with us.

Use FLAT LATEX paint without UV brighteners. Theses brighteners add a kida iridescent look to the color and will fluoresce (glow), especially under electronic flash illumination. This is why they have to be avoided.

You can paint directly on a wall, sized canvas, or a good quality window shade for portable use.

First lay in a base coat of flat black or dark gray latex paint latex paint. This can be done with a roller. Allow it to dry overnight.

Next, select the color you are going to use, at least 4 differet ones and obtain them is smaller quantities.

You can use brushes of various sizes and friness of the bristles and wads of NATURAL SPONGE to apply the paints. Allow enough time for drying between application so the colors won't dissolve and discolor each other. Paints can be brushed or dabbed on with the brushes and sponges. You can also blend the edges of each color application.

As I am painting, I keep the camera at my average distance from the subject, focus on the subject positon, and observe the effect both with the backgroud in an out of focuse at various apertures. When I achieve the effect I want, I stop painting!

I usually try for a more contrasty effect where the backgroud appears somewhat brighter that it will appear in a low key portrait. I can use a backgroud light for a medium key effect or just use the spill form the main ligh for a low key image in whic case the background will just add a bit of color and tonal masee and not appear like a "fake oil painting". That small amount of tonal mass will give more dimension to the image than a jet black background because it provides the illusion of space and gives the viewer the illusion that they can walk aroud the subject.

COLORS- I usually stick with colder colors that accentuate the warmth of the skin tones. Warmer color provide a more monochromatic effect. Colder color recede and provide more space and depth- warmer color tend to project forward. You can decide of the effect you prefer.

You can look through a book of Gainsborough, Rembrandt, Degas, Renoir or you favorit master for ideas or just go at it and design you own.
For large groups and full length portraits you can paint the wall and the floor or use a canvas that forms a cyclorama.

Good thing is, if you mess it up, you can lay in another base coat and start all over again or just touch up the mess and fix it.

You can also do a high key version with a white base coat and subtle pastel colors.

I am working away for my studio this week, If anyone is interested, I'll post some images of a few of the backgrounds I have in my camera room as they look in person and then in the resulting images. I may have a few in my tablet here, if I can find them, I'll post them later on.

Kindest regards, Ed :lol:
Welcome home, Ed! We are always happy to have you drop in, and hope you'll visit often. Though I have nothing that resembles a studio, I found your post informative because some of the principles can be applied to choosing backgrounds for composites, something I do for fun on a regular basis. Thanks for sharing, and I'm sure Duck'll be glad to see you too!
"God gave me photography so that I could pray with my eyes" - Dewitt Jones

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Duck
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Post by Duck » Tue Nov 26, 2019 6:39 am

Ed Shapiro wrote:
Sun Nov 24, 2019 10:47 pm
Hey Gang! I'M A BIT LATE TO THE PARTY BUT I THOUGHT I WOULD STOP BY. [...]

ED! BUDDY! WE'VE MISSED YOU AROUND HERE! :yay:

Welcome back. It's always a real pleasure hearing from you.
I hope all is well and that you've been busy. We'd love to hear what you've been up to.
"If you didn't learn something new today, you wasted a day."
Image ImageImageImageImage

Tutorials ⇒ How to critique photos
NOTE: If you would like me specifically to critique your image, please let me know through a private message with a link to your post.

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