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Duck
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TV Remote Control

Post by Duck » Tue Jan 20, 2015 7:31 am

A simple single light shot originally done on a black acrylic sheet. I ended up replacing the background (horizon line up) with one created in PS.

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Post by Shine Gonzalvez » Tue Jan 20, 2015 7:59 am

Would you mind sketching out your work flow in ps
Thanks in advance
Shine

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Post by Duck » Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:10 am

This image started life, as most of mine do, in Lightroom. I normalize the image there but you can do the same thing in Adobe Camera Raw.
What I mean by normalize is I adjust exposure, shadow and highlight detail, lens distortion and angle corrections, white balance, etc. Basically all global changes that affect the entire image.

I then open up the image in PS and immediately create a new blank layer. I use this layer for all pixel based corrections like spot healing, dust removal and cloning. This step is rather time consuming but it's important for getting a clean look on the product.

As I was cleaning the image I decided I would be replacing the background with something cleaner and more interesting. The original was just a simple black gradient from a light on a black background. For that I would need to mask out my original background. I masked out the remote and it's reflection in the acrylic tabletop and then began work on the new background.

Even though the tabletop was rather dusty (acrylic attracts dust like you can't believe) I decided to keep it as it had a really nice gradient. I Masked out the tabletop and removed the section of remote that overlaps it. I used PS's Content Aware Fill for a quick and dirty fill. To remove the dust particles I applied a horizontal motion blur.

For the gradient background I created another blank layer and applied a radial fill (blue to black) so that the center of the radius was behind the center of the remote. Noise was added to remove any potential banding. Once created the background made the tabletop look too drab. I reduced the opacity on the tabletop layer allowing some of the background color to come through.

In a nutshell that was my workflow on this image. The most time consuming part was doing the cleanup on the product.

hope this helps.
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Post by Shine Gonzalvez » Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:44 am

Thank you duck... I will try this graduating tequnique on my portraits...

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Post by TomCofer » Tue Jan 20, 2015 11:29 am

Duck wrote: For the gradient background I created another blank layer and applied a radial fill (blue to black) so that the center of the radius was behind the center of the remote. Noise was added to remove any potential banding... hope this helps.

Duck, if you don't mind, what method did you use to add the noise. I ask, because I've seen this done a couple different ways, including the splatter effect.
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Post by Duck » Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:25 pm

TomCofer wrote:Duck, if you don't mind, what method did you use to add the noise. I ask, because I've seen this done a couple different ways, including the splatter effect.


In this particular case when a gradient is created with software the gradients are done with a series of almost visually imperceptible steps from one tone to the next. But this only depends on the dynamic range of the gradient. For example, going from white to black the steps are not as noticeable as there are a lot of tonal steps to blend. When the dynamic range is shortened, like going from dark gray to black for example, the tonal range or data selection available to fill in the gradient is much more limited. In those cases you can often see banding. Linear bands for linear gradients and circular bands for circular gradients, etc. The banding is created because software places the gradient in a very uniform and mechanical manner. There is no element of randomness to the tonal placement.

In order to break up that distracting evenness of the tones you need to introduce an element of randomness. Noise does just that without overly destroying or visually taking away from the look of the gradient. In this case I simply used the Noise / Add Noise filter in Photoshop. You just need a small touch of noise, enough to break up the pattern. I make sure I have Distribution set to Gaussian and the Monochromatic check box selected. Gaussian creates a random spread and Monochromatic suppresses the introduction of random color dots.

On a side note, Add Noise is also useful when you have to manually rebuild areas of an image or to reduce the effect of Moire in some areas of an image. You can also use Add Noise when trying to salvage an underexposed JPG that has a lot of artifacting and Noise Reduction can't quite fix the problem.
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Post by TomCofer » Tue Jan 20, 2015 11:09 pm

Thanks Duck. I've seen a couple different methods of adding noise to reduce the banding. Oh, and you explained banding far better than my attempt in another post. :)
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Post by Ceropegia » Wed Jan 21, 2015 12:27 am

I really appreciate your detailed sharing of how you processed this photo!

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Post by Duck » Wed Jan 21, 2015 12:38 am

Ceropegia wrote:I really appreciate your detailed sharing of how you processed this photo!


My pleasure. Glad you find it useful.
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Post by Shine Gonzalvez » Wed Jan 21, 2015 5:39 am

Ceropegio... I was going to give it a go and ask duck if we could post it here .... Would be good to see yr version too....
Duck ... Let us know... Otherwise will start on another thread in this section if you prefer....

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