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Photography DiscussionMy new challenge: shooting in manual only.

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Steven G Webb
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Re: My new challenge: shooting in manual only.

Post by Steven G Webb » Sat Apr 14, 2018 2:20 am

Duck wrote:
Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:29 pm
Here's a cheat sheet I made based on one of my lectures.

6 Step Exp Cheat Sheet.jpg

I know this seems like an oversimplification out of context of the lecture.
I either don't know how or otherwise cannot add to your reputation or give you karma points but this post certainly merits it.
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Post by Duck » Sat Apr 14, 2018 3:11 am

Steven G Webb wrote:
Sat Apr 14, 2018 2:20 am
I either don't know how or otherwise cannot add to your reputation or give you karma points but this post certainly merits it.
Unfortunately the author of the "Reputation" plug-in we had has stopped development on it and became obsolete with the new PHPBB update. It was sad to see it go but until someone either picks up development, offers something new or it gets added in a future update, we have to just offer up the kudos in a post.

Thanks for the sentiment. I appreciate it greatly.
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Post by rmalarz » Sat Apr 14, 2018 6:28 pm

Matt, I'm leaning towards number 2. I like the complete involvement of the light and glass in that one. I would say I shoot manual mode 99% of the time. When pressed into service and needing to use a strobe, for the most part I'll use auto. However, this summer's project is to get away from that and shoot more manual mode for strobe work, as well.
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Post by Matt Quinn » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:19 am

Duck wrote:
Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:29 pm
Here's a cheat sheet I made based on one of my lectures.

6 Step Exp Cheat Sheet.jpg

I know this seems like an oversimplification out of context of the lecture.
Duck, What is meant by thirds selection? Matt
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Post by Matt Quinn » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:21 am

rmalarz wrote:
Sat Apr 14, 2018 6:28 pm
Matt, I'm leaning towards number 2. I like the complete involvement of the light and glass in that one. I would say I shoot manual mode 99% of the time. When pressed into service and needing to use a strobe, for the most part I'll use auto. However, this summer's project is to get away from that and shoot more manual mode for strobe work, as well.
--Bob
Thanks,Bob. Good luck this summer. Matt
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Post by Matt Quinn » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:27 am

Duck wrote:
Fri Apr 13, 2018 10:29 pm
Here's a cheat sheet I made based on one of my lectures.

6 Step Exp Cheat Sheet.jpg

I know this seems like an oversimplification out of context of the lecture.
Another question,Duck. I have the camera in manual mode, I use auto focus and move either the aperture or the shutter so that the exposure meter is dead center. I shoot. I chimp; the histogram is nowhere near a full spread. So, I go back and change exposure or aperture shot by shot until I have ETTR-d almost all the way to the right. Is this the way to be shooting in manual? Thanks. Matt
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Post by Matt Quinn » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:32 am

More trade-offs: The aperture is one area for addressing the depth-of-field. Another is focal length and camera distance. If you can back up physically you can add some depth, if you can do that and use a longer focal length you'll add even more. You could also focus stack in Photoshop but that's another kettle of fish.
[/quote]

Steven, Thanks for the two posts. Very helpful. I am practicing, practicing, practicing but there is a long way to go and requires slowing down and looking at the info in the viewfinder. I'll get there. Thanks. Matt
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Post by Matt Quinn » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:05 pm

"I know this seems like an oversimplification out of context of the lecture."

Duck, A question on metering in manual. On my nikon d800e I have three modes: matrix, center-weighted, and spot. I have been using spot on the brightest to get the exposure "correct" by moving either shutter or aperture so that the value is at the 0. Then I frame and focus and shoot. But I find there is still lots of room to the right. What simple suggestions do you have? Thanks. Matt
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Post by Matt Quinn » Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:42 pm

Matt Quinn wrote:
Sun Apr 15, 2018 2:05 pm
"I know this seems like an oversimplification out of context of the lecture."

Duck, A question on metering in manual. On my nikon d800e I have three modes: matrix, center-weighted, and spot. I have been using spot on the brightest to get the exposure "correct" by moving either shutter or aperture so that the value is at the 0. Then I frame and focus and shoot. But I find there is still lots of room to the right. What simple suggestions do you have? Thanks. Matt
And another question prompted by the Photographylife article on Lightroom:
"Let’s go over data that is actually read by Lightroom / Photoshop Camera RAW:

White Balance, as set by the camera. Instead of your chosen value such as Auto, Incandescent, Fluorescent, etc, only the actual color temperature and tint are read from the RAW file."

Bryan Peterson, in his book, indicates that he uses 'Shade' wb a majority of the time when shooting outdoors. But the quote above seems to indicate that doesn't matter. Which is true? Thanks. Matt
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Post by mikec » Sun Apr 15, 2018 3:58 pm

My camera has what is called Focus Peaking. So when in manual as I adjust the lens, the subject once in focus the object shimmers so I know that is my focus point.
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